Undertaking Home Repair

Let's start by differentiating between a home improvement and a home repair. A home improvement, as the name implies, means improving something. It is usually a renovation to create more space, change the layout of the house, improve energy efficiency, or to make aesthetic changes. This report will deal with the simpler topic of home repair--basically replacing things that are worn out or fixing things that are broken. Here are some very basic rules to follow.

Know what you want done
If you are replacing a worn out furnace, for example, do some research to find out whether you want a mid-efficiency furnace or a high-efficiency furnace. If you are repairing a roof with a leaking valley flashing, determine whether you want the valley flashing replaced or just patched to last a few years until the whole roof needs re-flashing.

If you know what you want done, you can compare apples to apples when reviewing quotations. Otherwise it would be very hard to compare various quotes if every contractor has a different repair strategy. Be prepared to stick to your guns. Many contractors will tell you that the job is much bigger, much harder, or it must be done his way (because if you don't, it will be dangerous, or much more expensive the next time). As home inspectors, we are often faced with contractor opinions that differ drastically from the recommendations in our reports. In most of these cases, the contractor is proposing unnecessary work.

Find at least 3 experienced, reputable contractors who are capable of doing the work. This may sound easier than it is. While it is best to rely on personal referrals from people you trust, these referrals must be taken with a grain of salt. Former customers of contractors are not usually in a position to comment on the quality of the installation of a furnace, for example. Also be sure the type of work that you are planning to have done is similar (in size and scope) to the work done for the person providing the referral. Many contractors who are geared to do major renovations are not well suited to do minor repairs and vice versa.

Obtain 3 written estimates
Our experience has shown that contractors quotes can vary as much as 300% on any given job. This is sometimes due to different perceptions of what needs to be done. This can be avoided by following Step 1 carefully. However, sometimes the variance is simply the result of how busy the contractor is.

Get three references from each contractor
Better than three references is a list of the recent clients that the contractor has worked for. That way you get to choose who you would like to select as a reference. Follow up with these references bearing in mind the comments in Step 2. While you are at it, ensure that the contractor has appropriate licenses and insurance.

Choose the contractor
Don't necessarily base your choice on price alone. Look carefully at what has been included in the estimates. Select the contractor with the best reputation, provided that the price for the job is fair. Avoid paying cash. The benefit of a cash deal is typically far greater for the contractor than it is for the homeowner.Have both parties sign a contract.


The contract should include a complete description of the work. It should also include details as to who is responsible for obtaining permits (if there is any doubt regarding the necessity of a permit, contact your local building department). The contract should have a start date and a completion date. (On larger contracts, sometimes a penalty clause is included for each day the job extends beyond the completion date.)
The contract must also contain a payment schedule. The schedule should not demand very much money up front and the payment should be based on stages of completion as opposed to pre-determined dates. Remember to hold back 10% of each payment for 45 days after the completion of the job to determine whether any liens have been placed on the property (as a result of the contractor not paying his sub-contractors).

Also, don't expect much in the way of a guarantee if you are simply asking a contractor to undertake band-aid repairs. Many contractors will not simply patch a damaged valley flashing, for example, even if they are 95% sure that the repair will work. This is because there is still a 5% chance that they will get complaints to fix a subsequent leak. In fairness, the leakage is not their fault. They just do not want the hassles. Consequently, many contractors will suggest repairs which are overkill (replacing the entire side of the roof, for example) to reduce the potential for complaints. A significantly lower price can be obtained, if you explain to the contractor that you expect him to do his best, but you aren't going to make him responsible for the future of the entire roof based on a $300 repair.

Expect delays
Any type of home repair seems to take longer than was first predicted. If the repairs involve any sort of interior demolition, expect divorce dust.
Have a contingency fund Many home repairs end up unearthing something else that requires repair. While this is very common, ask lots of questions if your contractor is proposing additional work.

Summary
We trust that the above information will help people in their dealings with contractors, realign expectations, and perhaps avoid pitfalls.

Contents of this site Copyright 2008 Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd. All rights reserved. No text or graphical material may be copied from this site without the express written permission of Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd. Line drawings are from the Carson Dunlop Home Inspection Training Program and Home Inspection Software Tool - Horizon

HOUSEHOLD HAZARDS

This list of terms covers most of the common household dangers likely to be encountered by InterNACHI inspectors.

 

• algae: microorganisms that may grow to colonies in damp environments, including certain rooftops. They can discolor shingles; often described as "fungus."
   
• alligatoring:  a condition of paint or aged asphalt brought about by the loss of volatile oils, and the oxidation caused by solar radiation; causes a coarse, "checking" pattern characterized by slipping of the new paint coating over the old coating to the extent that the old coating can be seen through the fissures. "Alligatoring" produces a pattern of cracks resembling an alligator hide, and is ultimately the result of the limited tolerance of paint or asphalt to thermal expansion and contraction.
   
• asbestos:  a common form of magnesium silicate which was commonly used in various construction products because of its stability and resistance to fire. Asbestos exposure, caused by inhaling loose asbestos fibers, is associated with various forms of lung disease. Asbestos is the name given to certain inorganic minerals when they occur in fibrous form. Though fire-resistant, its extremely fine fibers are easily inhaled, and exposure to them over a period of years has been linked to cancers of the lung and the lung-cavity lining, and to asbestosis, a severe lung impairment. Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral fiber sometimes found in older homes. It is hazardous to your health when a possibility exists of exposure to inhalable fibers. Homeowners should be alert for friable (readily crumbled or brittle) asbestos, and always seek professional advice in dealing with it.
   
• bleeding:  the migration of a liquid to the surface of a component or into/onto an adjacent material.
   
• blister:  an enclosed, raised spot evident on the surface of a building. They are mainly caused by the expansion of trapped air, water vapor, moisture or other gases.
   
• blue stain:  a bluish or grayish discoloration of the sapwood caused the growth of certain mold-like fungi on the surface and in the interior of a piece, made possible by the same conditions that favor the growth of other fungi.
   
• bubbling:  in glazing, open or closed pockets in a sealant caused by the release, production or expansion of gasses.
   
• buckling:  the bending of a building material as a result of wear and tear, or contact with a substance such as water.
   
• carbon monoxide (CO):  a colorless, odorless, highly poisonous gas formed by the incomplete combustion of carbon.
   
• cohesive failure:  internal splitting of a compound resulting from over-stressing of the compound.
   
• condensation:  water condensing on walls, ceiling and pipes; normal in areas of high humidity, usually controlled by ventilation or a dehumidifier.
   
• corrosion:  the deterioration of metal by chemical or electrochemical reaction resulting from exposure to weathering, moisture, chemicals and other agents and media.
   
• crater:  pit in the surface of concrete resulting from cracking of the mortar due to expansive forces associated with a particle of unsound aggregate or a contaminating material, such as wood or glass.
   
• crazing:  a series of hairline cracks in the surface of weathered materials, having a web-like appearance; also, hairline cracks in pre-finished metals caused by bending or forming; see brake metal.
   
• cupping:  a type of warping that causes boards to curl up at their edges.
   
• damp-proofing:  a process used on concrete, masonry and stone surfaces to repel water, the main purpose of which is to prevent the coated surface from absorbing rainwater while still permitting moisture vapor to escape from the structure. Moisture vapor readily penetrates coatings of this type. Damp-proofing generally applies to surfaces above grade; waterproofing generally applies to surfaces below grade.
   
• decay:  disintegration of wood and other substances through the action of fungi.
   
• distortion:  alteration of viewed images caused by variations in glass flatness or in homogeneous portions within the glass; an inherent characteristic of heat-treated glass.
   
• drippage:  bitumen material that drips through roof deck joints, or over the edge of a roof deck.
   
• dry rot:  see fungal wood rot.
   
• feathering strips:  tapered wood filler strips placed along the butt edges of old wood shingles to create a level surface when re-roofing over existing wood shingle roofs; aso called "horsefeathers."
   
• fungal wood rot:  a common wood-destroying organism which develops when wood-containing material is exposed to moisture and poor air circulation for a long period of time (six-plus months); often and incorrectly referred to as "dry rot."
   
• fungi (wood):  microscopic plants that live in damp wood and cause mold, stain and decay.
   
• incompatibility:  descriptive of two or more materials which are not suitable to be used together.
   
• lead-based paint:  Lead is a highly toxic metal that was used for many years in products found in and around homes. Lead may cause a range of health problems, from behavioral problems and learning disabilities, to seizures and death. Children age 6 and under are most at risk because their bodies are growing quickly.
   
• migration:  spreading or creeping of a constituent of a compound onto/into adjacent surfaces; see bleeding.
   
• mud cracks:  cracks developing from the normal shrinkage of an emulsion coating when applied too heavily.
   
• mushroom:  an unacceptable occurrence when the top of a caisson concrete pier spreads out and hardens to become wider than the foundation's wall thickness.
   
• photo-oxidation:  oxidation caused by rays of the sun.
   
• ponding:  a condition where water stands on a roof for prolonged periods due to poor drainage and/or deflection of the deck.
   
• pop-out:  see stucco pop-out.
   
• radon:  a naturally-occurring, radioactive gas which is heavier than air and is common in many parts of the country. Radon gas exposure is associated with lung cancer. Mitigation measures may involve crawlspace and basement venting and various forms of vapor barriers.
   
• scrap out:  the removal of all drywall material and debris after the home is "hung out" (installed) with drywall.
   
• seasoning:  removing moisture from green wood in order to improve its serviceability.
   
• settlement:  shifts in a structure, usually caused by freeze-thaw cycles underground.
   
• sludge:  term for the waste material found in sump pump pits, septic systems and gutters.
   
• spalling:  the chipping and flaking of concrete, bricks and other masonry where improper drainage and venting and freeze/thaw cycling exists.
   
• splitting:  the formation of long cracks completely through a membrane. Splits are frequently associated with lack of allowance for expansion stresses. They can also be a result of deck deflection and a change in deck direction.
   
• ultraviolet degradation:  a reduction in certain performance limits caused by exposure to ultraviolet light.
   
• UV rays:  ultraviolet rays from the sun.
   
• veining:  in roofing, the characteristic lines or "stretch marks" which develop during the aging process of soft bitumens.
   
• warping:  any distortion in a material.
   
• water vapor:  moisture existing as a gas in air.

 

InterNACHI inspectors are trained in detecting these and other common household dangers.

FIREPLACES

Fireplaces are no longer used as the primary source for heating homes, but the magic of a fire stills makes a fireplace a valued part of any home. There are few things nicer than a cheery fire, especially on a cold winter night. By the same token, there are few things more distressing than a fireplace which doesn't draw - belching smoke into the home, chasing people out, setting off smoke detectors, and dirtying everything in sight. Why do some draw perfectly, and others so poorly?

Good Design: There are many factors which affect fireplace performance. Some of the more important are listed here:

• Ratio of Fireplace Opening to Chimney Flue Size: The area of the flue should be roughly (1/12) one twelfth the size of the opening area.

• Chimney Height: The taller the better, but at least 3 feet above the roof and 2 feet higher than anything within 10 feet of it.
  
  
• Damper Size and Location: Full width of firebox and at least 6 inches above the top of the opening. The damper is usually closer to the front of the fireplace than the back.
  
   
  
  
• Smoke Chamber Slope and Smoothness: The chamber above the damper should be as smooth as possible, and should slope no more than 45^o as it funnels the smoke from the damper opening into the chimney.
  
  

Most fireplaces break at least some of the rules of good design and yet many work well despite this. Fireplace design is more of an art than a science. Because there are so many factors which affect the draw, it is impossible to know how "perfect" the unit has to be to work. What about solving the problem of a fireplace that doesn't draw well?

Improving the Draw

• Reduce the Opening Size: This can be achieved by laying an additional row of firebrick on the floor of the firebox. Even before this is done, the solution can be simulated by holding a piece of metal over part of the opening and watching to see if the draft improves.

• Extend the Chimney: This is expensive but often successful. Less expensive alternatives include a rain cap or a metal draft hood which rotates with the wind so that smoke is always released downwind.
• Move the Fire Back: Often the fire is simply too close to the front of the firebox.
  
  
• Add Air: A fireplace which is starved for air won't work properly. Sometimes opening a window in the room with the fireplace will supply enough air. Fireplace draw is more difficult to achieve if the house is under negative pressure. Don't have exhaust fans on while trying to start a fire. Most furnaces also work like exhaust fans. It is easier to start a fire when the furnace is in an off cycle. Glass doors help to protect the fireplace from negative pressure effects in the house, especially if combustion air can be brought in from outside.
  
  
• Warm the Flue: This is a trick most people know about. Pushing a burning piece of rolled-up newspaper up past the damper will help overcome the column of cold air in the chimney and allow a good draft to be established quickly.

We didn't suggest damper or smoke chamber modifications because they are expensive and should be considered last resorts.
 

Contents of this site Copyright 2008 Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd. All rights reserved.
No text or graphical material may be copied from this site without the express written permission of Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd. Line drawings are from the Carson Dunlop Home Inspection Training Program and Home Inspection Software Tool - Horizon